Buying Portuguese wines are "wine-savvy people reading the wine press," Madrigal said. They have a sense of adventure, he added, because Portuguese wines are different and distinctive.

"These wines are great with roasted meats like lamb or simple roasted poultry, like chicken," he said.

Tastes of the Douro

For this informal blind tasting of Portuguese wine, we focused on reds from the Douro, arguably Portugal's best-known wine region.

2003 Jose Maria da Fonseca & Van Zeller Quinta Vale Dona Maria: A dark, almost mysterious wine made from a single vineyard in the Rio Torto Valley. Rich with the aroma of cooked plums and cedar, the wine's fruit is reined in by strong yet never overly assertive tannins. Expect notes of mint, cinnamon and spice, including plenty of pepper. Serve with braised beef and mushrooms, pork stew with clams. 3 corks. $42

2003 Quinta do Crasto Touriga Nacional: Touriga Nacional is the primo wine grape in the Douro. Here, the grape makes a smooth, sophisticated wine rife with notes of pepper, leather and cherries. The nose is very much like a pinot noir. Serve with roasted salmon and wild mushrooms, rosemary-scented leg of lamb. 3 corks. $65

2003 Prats & Symington Chryseia: This Douro red has a subtle black cherry aroma and a flavor infused with smoke, cedar and even a touch of rubber. Fruit and tannins are balanced, although the finish can get a tad puckery. Serve with pot roast, rabbit in wine sauce, pork tenderloin with roasted peppers. 3 corks. $45

2003 Lavradores de Feitoria Tres Bagos: The least expensive and lightest of these Douro reds. A tongue-tickling pepperiness gives way to cherry and earth flavors. Nice spice. Serve with roast chicken and garlic, grilled chicken pizza, bean and beef stew. 3 corks. $13